IT may have been a chilled white wine rather than a Martini - shaken not stirred - but I still felt as if we had stumbled into a James Bond movie as we sat in Monte Carlo’s Casino Square, taking in the decadence and glamour.

As Rolls Royces, Bentleys, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and Aston Martins glided past our table, it felt like another time - that of the legendary and beautiful actress Grace Kelly, who became Princess of Monaco in the ’50s after marrying Prince Rainier III.

We watched the world go by at a table outside the Café de Paris in the iconic Place du Casino, where tourists and locals rub shoulders in style. It’s the place to people-watch and for over a century the café has been a Monaco institution.

My husband and I were staying in the stately Fairmont Hotel just a stone’s throw from Casino Square. With its sea views, gorgeous rooftop pool and Champagne bar, this hotel ticked all the boxes.

Despite boasting 602 rooms and suites, the hotel still retains the personal touch, and the accommodation is elegant and comfortable, with enormous beds with amazing mattresses, and the fluffiest and squidgiest of duvets.

There are three restaurants, a bar, 18 meeting rooms, a spa and wellness centre and rooftop poolside area, and the hotel has its own shopping arcade and in-house casino.

The Fairmont hosts one of the Nobu restaurants and happy hour in the Nobu bar is not to be missed. Wonderful cocktails are half price between 6pm and 8pm. And the dining – intimate, with a sushi bar and a terrace overlooking the Mediterranean - was sublime.

Monaco is the second smallest country in the world (after the Vatican). Nestled between Italy and France, on the Côte d’Azur, the Principality of Monaco offers guests more than 300 days of sunshine each year.

But we found that the run-up to the festive season really is the perfect time to go. There was still sunshine and temperatures of 14-15 °C, but you were away from the frenzy of summer and grand prix dates, and there are oodles of the most glorious white Christmas trees dotted all around. There were also cabins on the promenade leading down to the harbour, selling opulent Christmas decorations and gifts.

Everything revolves around Casino Square. Join the locals sipping Espresso or plump for a pint of beer (16 euros), a small glass of wine (8 euros), a cocktail or one of their signature sandwiches.

If you want to enter the casino, it costs 10 euros. Don’t forget to bring a photo ID and you’ll need to wear a suit and tie in the evening.

In 1873, Joseph Jagger gained the casino great publicity by "breaking the bank at Monte Carlo" by discovering and capitalizing on a bias in one of the casino’s roulette wheels. Technically, the bank in this sense was the money kept on the table by the croupier.

Other must-see attractions include the Palace, official residence of the Prince of Monaco; the Japanese gardens; and, if there’s time, the Opera de Monte Carlo.

The harbour is also well worth a visit. The huge super-yachts are a glorious sight. All that is needed is a Lottery win to be part of this jet-set, we were thinking.

We found a wine shop alongside the waters, where you could choose your wine from huge racks and chilled cabinets, and then either carry it away or drink in for the same price. Outside heaters meant you could sit in the evening overlooking the yachts, even though it was the end of November.

Close to Casino Square is the magnificent Le Metropole Shopping Centre, which is definitely worth a visit, even if only for window shopping.

The Métropole gallery, with its 80 designer boutiques, oozes a luxury décor of beautiful marble under a magnificent period chandelier. The Christmas decorations are breathtaking and Santa has made the mall his home for a short while.

Three nights just wasn’t enough to experience Monte Carlo. We can’t wait to return…

It’s all in the detail: Fairmont Monte Carlo is at 12 avenue des Spelugues, MC 98000 Monaco. Website: fairmont.com/montecarlo. Email: [email protected]. Rates start from €259.